Yorkshire 2005

These photographs and notes are from our trip to Yorkshire in March, where we visited our good friends at their home in Collingham. The weather was mostly cloudy and very cool, but we coped well by seeking out centuries-old pubs where we could have leisurely lunches on heavy oaken tables in front of glowing stone fireplaces.

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Bolton Castle is near Leyburn in North Yorkshire. It's a massive fortress with walls nine feet thick that dates to 1379 (Mary Queen of Scots was imprisoned here in 1568 and 1569).

Bolton Castle advertises itself as one of the best preserved castles in England, and significant portions of the building would in fact still be habitable--but much of the interior is open to the weather, which is noticeable on a cool damp day such as the one pictured above.

Nestled in the wooded valley of the River Skell, Fountains Abbey was founded by Benedictine monks in 1132 and taken over by Cistercians three years later; by the mid-12th century it had become the wealthiest abbey in Britain

The extensive grounds of Fountains Abbey include Fountains Hall, a mansion built in the early 17th century with stones from the abbey ruins. The ruins of the abbey itself are still enormous, however, and enormously impressive.

Harewood House was completed in 1771, and its claims to fame include its elaborate ceilings and Chippendale furnishings; the panoramic view of the Yorkshire countryside from the back terrace is worth the price of admission.

Today Harewood House is home to the Earl and Countess of Harewood, who reside in the upper story that's closed to the public. I'm not sure I'd enjoy being forced to allow paying customers to traipse through my property most of the year, but then I can't say that I really feel all that sorry for the owners.

All Saints' Church is located on the grounds of Harewood House. Its churchyard is dominated by headstones of 18th and 19th century parishioners, several of whose inscriptions speak poignantly of the bereavement of loved ones. Many of them also speak to the Christian piety of the people of the time, which is even sadder--to think that all of those people squandered their entire lives on such silly superstition, and now it's too late for any of them to do anything about it.

All Saints' Church is especially renowned for its 15th and 16th century alabaster effigies of the Lords and Ladies of Harewood and nearby Gawthorpe estate. If I had to be buried in a church (and thank the Sublime Nymph of the Sacred Sylvan Glen that I don't have to be), I'd wish for an impressive tomb like these.